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Home of the Kombat Airmadillos!


Orders, Free Catalogs, or Questions:




  • A 4 way glo plug wrench, an adjustable wrench, a phillips screwdriver and slotted screwdriver (both large and small), allen wrenches to fit your engine bolts (they will come loose), a pair of wire cutters, vice grips and a pair of pliers to tighten those nuts the wrench can't reach. Do not neglect to bring these things, or your flying day will be short.

  • A propane torch and a old screwdriver is real handy. When a nylon bolt that holds the wing or landing gear on shears off close to the fuselage in a crash, the easiest way to remove the broken bolt is to heat the tip of the screwdriver till its red hot and plunge it into the nylon bolt. Push until the blade goes deep into the bolt and molten nylon bubbles out around the edges. Hold the blade still for a few seconds and then let it go. Wait a few seconds more and simply unscrew the broken bolt. It only takes a minute. (In a pinch, you can carve a screwdriver slot in the broken bolt with a pocket knife, but the torch method is much easier).

  • A box of extra parts, servo wheels, nuts, bolts and anything else short of the kitchen sink. Bring all the leftovers from your kit.

  • Instead of buying a battery checker, get a quick field charger. After 4 or 5 flights, just quick charge and you can fly all day. Get one that cuts out automatically and is made for the purpose. Don't use your old R/C car battery charger unless you want to fry your batteries. One other point about a fast field charger: Do not try to charge a totally dead transmitter (you know the one you left on from last weekend). You were warned!


  • Now that you have broken your needle valve off on the first flight of the day, you can still fly without a needle valve. Just plug the opening where you needle valve used to be with anything you can find. Whittle down a nylon bolt or use an old glo plug or screw. Slip a wheel collar over the fuel line leading to the carb, and adjust the set screw in the wheel collor to lean out the engine. It really works.

  • You lost the nylon spacer? Well, just use the broken propeller hub as a spacer. (You did break the prop didn't you?). Just make sure it is 1/2" thick.

  • A 10 x 6 prop at 16,000 rpm can really do a number on your wing. Most cuts can be repaired with some clear packing tape. Just be sure to clean off any oil residue before applying tape.

  • You broke the what? The spar? You should still be able to fix it and fly again. Pry the end of the wing open with a screwdriver. Carefully pull it open. I know its tough, but it does come apart. Now reach your arm way in and pull out the spar. It usually breaks at the doubler block. Just place the short broken piece on the side of the doubler block and drill two holes for a couple of 6-32 by 1-1/2" bolts (the same bolts used for wheel mounting). Slide the spar back in and align the mounting hole. (I know its a little shorter on one side but that don't matter!) Now punch a few holes along the rounded wing tip and use some wire ties to lace the wing back together. A quick and dirty fix that works!

  • Aileron torque rods bent? Easy, just slide them out of the back of the ailerons and straighten. Bend in a slight belly before inserting back in wing to keep them at the bottom of the hinge.

  • Aileron torque rods torn through the plastic? Straighten rods first and re-install. Punch a hole in the rear edge of the wing about 1/4" in front of where rods cross each other. Take a cable tie and thread it through to form a hinge and hold the rods.

  • Ripped the ailerons completely off!!! WOW, just re-hinge them with wire ties!

  • A slight bend in the fuselage can be straightened over your knee. Harder bends give in to a pair of vice grips and a crescent wrench. Of course clamping in a vice is the easiest.(Why not donate a cheap vice to the flying club!) Be careful when you straighten around bolt holes. Give them plenty of support or else you may end up with two pieces!

  • You finally broke the fuselage? If the break in the fuselage is at the rear wing bolt hole, simply take the back half and drop it down 1/2" and slide it forward between the two upright rear plates. drill a hole through the plates and through both rails and bolt together. This will shorten the fuselage about 2" but will not affect the flying whatsoever. You still need to drill the back wing mounting bolt hole again (drill it 13/64 and tap with a 1/4 x 20) or for a field fix drill out to 1/4" and use a 1/4" x 2" bolt and nut to hold the wing on. Other fuselage breaks can be fixed or reinforced by doubling up plates on each side of the break and bolting together.

  • Threads stripped out? For a quick field repair, take a piece of cable tie strap, bend in half and insert in wing mounting hole. The steel bolt will cut its own threads in the nylon insert and make for a quick repair. Another more permanent method is to fill the stripped out hole with epoxy, let dry, drill out 13/64 and tap 1/4" x 20. This is a permanent fix.

  • Fuselage bent, broken, stripped and mangled? Time to buy a new fuselage! Our number is 1-800-264-7840

  • You broke off your muffler! Don't buy a new one yet, try this. Get a stainless steel water hose clamp and cut it in half and drill a hole to fit a 4-40 bolt on each end. Now drill and tap for a 4-40 bolt on each side of your muffler. Attach the ends to the muffler and tighten the clamp. Use epoxy welding compound to fill any holes. When you finally decide to buy a new muffler, why not consider spending it on a muffled tuned pipe instead. They do not break off as easily and make you engine run about 1000 rpm faster. Everybody could use a little more power!


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